Characteristics of the 2SC bipolar transistor. Type – n-p-n; Collector-Emitter Voltage: 50 V; Collector-Base Voltage: 50 V; Emitter-Base Voltage: 4 V. 2SC Datasheet, 2SC NPN Power Transistor Datasheet, buy 2SC Transistor. 2SC, 2SC transistor, 2SC NPN Power Transistor, buy 2SC Package Type, TO Technical Data, 2SC Datasheet.
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S2c1061 1 to 20 of Transistor for Flourescent Ballast. After many years, these are failing one after the other. The fault is the “transistor” – looks like a power transistor, flat, black, bolted to the case, three leads. I have tried to have them repaired, but the local electronics wizes cannot identify the transistor.
The CB only has eight parts! This unidentified transistor, a “transformer”, two brown ‘chicklet’ looking things capacitors or resistors – marked. Can anyone help me identify the transistor?
2SC1061 Datasheet, Equivalent, Cross Reference Search
It would seem that given the function – tranxistor flourescent 12 VDC ‘ballast’ – dxtasheet running 2 F8T5 mini-tubes — that some smart guy ought to be able to guess what this MUST be. Thanks for any help you can transistorr, Kip Hansen. Assuming it is a bipolar transistor and not a power MOSFET you may simply substitute it with a hefty bipolar transistor for a test try.
You may be able to obtain this transistor from digi-keys: If you cannot obtain it, then you may ask your local electric wizards for getting at least V collector breakdown voltage bipolar transistor with A current and in similar package like the faulty transistor. As a first test you may try TIP flat, black whether the circuit works at all with a bipolar transistor but this type is only with V collector so may not work on the long run, but probably it is easier to obtain locally near to you?
You connect the three legs in the same order you see at the faulty transistor legs. If he has an oscilloscope then even better. With a Vceo rating of at least 60V and a Veb rating of at least 5V. The circuit is most likely a self oscillating circuit – most are, and most use npn transistors to operate.
Sony TA repair (problems) | Electronics Forums
It would be helpful to know the package size, otherwise you run the risk of incorrect pin configuration of the transistor.
Something like this may be worth trying. Here are photos of the circuit and the components. The two red wires go the pins at one end of the tube and the blues to the pins at the other. I have more detailed images of the capacitors etc if you need them. Thanks for your help and advice, Kip Hansen. The maunfacture has private labeled all of the parts to their own code. I found Thin-Lite in California and this is their website where they offer new ballast: Later, I have to go right now I’ll reverse their circuit and select a new part for you.
Isnt the number market below that?
Hopefully on one of the unit you have you can still find a good junction BE or BC on the transistor. Once you have determine the type then selection for substitute becomes easier. I hope this helps.
I will try both suggested transistors and see what works. If anyone can sketch out the circuit and fill in parts values, that would be great. I have closer images of the parts adtasheet needed. Thinlite expressly refused to supply a circuit diagram when asked transistot and suggested I find a distributor and buy replacement ballasts with the following statement “We do rransistor recommend field repair.
In most cases the transistors are not the only part that needs replacing. You have several options: Or your local RV store. Sorry to be delayed so long, I had to repair a friend’s computer that had a bad hard drive controller. I started reversing the PCB today and I need some help. I’m creating a micro-Cap simulation scehmatic. Once we get all of the parts and connections entered we can confirm the function by simulation and determine why the inverters fail after only a few years. First for your information, the T transistor is mounted on the solder side of the PCB, if you wipe off the thermal grease there is a chance the true component number is catasheet under the grease.
Wipe of the grease carefully catasheet you may wipe off label’s epoxy paint too. If it’s blank, then Thin-Lite scrubbed the original part number.
On the PCB, I need to see the solder tgansistor more clearly, rosin is blocking a few places such that I can not be sure if there is a connection or a open area. Please use some hot water, soap datasgeet a brush to remove the rosin. Getting the PCB wet is not a problem, when finished just datashdet it some where to dry and it’ll be fine. Then photo the bottom again and post it here.
Also on the transformer, if you have a ohm meter and the skill to determine the internal wiring; that would be a great help. As it is now, I’m using hints of the wiring order of some coils I can determine from external connections and the wire guage.
But I’m not completely certain of my guesses at this point. In the attached PDF all the components are guesses, if you can determine two red colored capacitors’ values, that would be a great help too! Tanuki, This is great. I am inserting the urls for a few close-ups of the caps. D That’s it besides the datashwet. That sneaky old unidentified Q1! Unfortunately, the circuit boards are on my boat, and I am in the mountains I don’t remember there being any other markings on these I have several of these boards.
I will check the other side and post the data, if datawheet. My recollection is the heat grease side is blank. Once I have a copy of the board to hand, I can dataheet at least which wires in and out of the coil at the same loop! I believe, contrary to Thinlite’s rep’s reply that the 2ssc1061 are probably the culprits eg: I DO have a working copy of the board, but don’t know how to check transistor types with a multi-meter. I will retrieve one of the PCBs and clean the rosen off to make that part clearer.
Stick with me here, I am thrilled to have someone knowledgeable helping me with this. There are several unloaded components on the PCB and most likely this schematic is the full monty. From what I’ve transietor so far, 2sc106 looks nearly identical once the second lamp and it’s associated circuits are logically removed.
Patent US is also interesting and related to other larger wattage lamps. The unit I have been photographing is for one 15 watt tube, whereas the one in the patent is for two 8 watt tubes, but essentially the same. I believe the values of the components would change slightly for higher wattage units. As for the one 15 watt tube PCB we have been looking at, as you requested, here are photos with the clear sealant and rosen removed.
Some silhouette photos help clarify. These may all be extraneous now, with the circuit from the patent.
Transistor for Flourescent Ballast
Does the transistor have to be “stronger” to power higher wattage bulbs? I have units of 8 watts, 16 dayasheet, and 30 watts. Anyway, here are the photos.
I will have a guy put in a 2N or equiv. I never would have thought to search the patent office for the circuit diagram. Backlighting worked really well. I’ve got the circuit completed now. The NPN transistor pinout is Pin 1: The emitter is connected to white wire i. Collector to the transfomer primary datsheet. Base to the lamp heater and clamp diode. The first photo above where you mention RF suppression, yes and more.
The extra capacitor is a snubber to limit the transformer’s primary leakage inductance fly back voltage, which reduces the high voltage stress on the transistor. If left unsnubbed there will be increased RF emissions too. What is the value of the snubber capacitor?
In the transiztor simulator there are datasehet high frequency spurious oscillations that I had to suppress with a addition snubbers, otherwise the simulator aborts. In the real world the transistor aborted too!
As built, the inverter circuit doesn’t work very well If you have a ohmmeter, what is the resistance across the lamp heater pins? Also, on your working unit that has the similiar inverter and wattage lamp, what is the AC voltage across the lamp when operating? One last item, if you have a ampmeter, when the inverter is operating, what is the supply current to the inverter black wire and the supply voltage? With these values and guessing that the inverter operates around 40KHz, I can tune the transformer parameters to a reasonable guess.
Once that is done, then the micro-cap will tell us what’s happening and why the units fail prematurely and what we can do to fix it! My guess is adding the snubber that your one unit already has! What is the resistance across the lamp heater pins?